Scarab Coil Tutorial
Posted by kininigin on February 18, 2004
Edited by life_matrix (bsperan) on September 6, 2005
(Note: By reading this document you acknowledge the Copyright Conditions at the bottom!)

[Editor's Note: The Scarab Coil Tutorial was originally posted to the Cloud-busters forum. This version has been updated, corrected, as well as edited to stay concise. Comments by and references to others were removed, as indicated by "[^snip^]". However, effort was made to keep intact the original intention & meaning of the instructions. To contact kiningin and for further info, try this link to the Grail Zone.]

This is one of the class-8 or infinity coils. It is related to the lakhovsky coil, but 100 times as powerful if built well. When set up appropriately, it is even suitable for use as a mobius, and gives unrivalled polarity of projection in that case.

What's more, it can then channel the emerging scarlet ray class of ether, rather than only the blue orgone vortex hitherto available. That will ultimately lead to a whole new generation of intent tools, with the power to de-materialise predatory assets en masse.

Why scarab? Well, unless someone comes along with a better handle, it stands for scalar reception and broadcast. It might equally be resorption rather than reception... or is it scarlet array beam?

On the other hand, the whiskery/crittery look of these things is sure to appeal to the naturalist or gentleman farmer in all of us, as it's also a kind of beetle with Egyptian mystery connotations even ;-)

Enough of that... here's how:


Unless you're able to assess scalar output, I suggest you follow these steps closely. [^snip^]...it's build synergy above all else that gets the stellar results. So, I do not recommend the 'halving technique' of that pedestrian lakhovsky coil, advocated by the britishdowserorg article. You can do much better than that with infinity coils!

I've found it rather effective to work in resonant length multiples for this. I've yet to test exactly how much impact that has, if any. By resonant length (RL) I mean 677mm or 26.65". Cut yourself a length of thin timber to that measurement precisely and mark eight equal sections on that 'yardstick'. I'll call those eighths.

Use enamelled magnet wire, half millimetre or thereabouts. [Around 24 gauge.] If doing a cb pipe scarab, try using 6 RL for the toroid portion and an extra half RL for the antennae. IOW, 4.4 metres or 14 feet five and a quarter inches. Double the wire over at the halfway point.

Take the separate strands end and mark an 'eighth' with your fingers.


Gently clamp that in a vise.


Likewise, take the loop end and mark an eighth.


Now shorten that by half an inch and bend the double wire back on itself at that point. Optionally wrap a little masking tape around the end half inch of these four bunched wires. Clamp that half inch in a drill chuck and bend the loopy bit to the side. Best to use one of those keyless ones.


The whole point being, that you want to avoid twisting up the antenna portions of the final wire stock, while allowing for the in-chuck portion of the divi-up.

Now with one end in the vise and the other in the drill, lightly tension the length and start twisting. Hopefully it's a variable speed job, so you don't have to worry about blipping the trigger... to avoid going too fast. [UPDATE!->] The rotation is clockwise, of course, as when you want to drill a hole.

Avoid resonance - the 'standing wave effect' - as that puts excessive twists near the chuck. Try varying the speed and tension. Always run the wire a little slack, but not enough to 'curl up'. Aim for 5 twists per centimetre in the final wire stock.

Now release carefully (mind the spring-back) and straighten out the loop end after removing any tape. There's your scarab/mobius stock!


Get a one foot length of 28-32mm dowel (or a broomstick packed with a few wraps of cardboard, etc) in other words, something a little thicker than your destination pipes. Secure in a vertical postion, in a drilled/clamped stand or grip the dowel in a vise.

Holding the loop end in your left hand and the strands in your right, 'lasso' the dowel and pull back at the halfway point of the wire stock. Bring around the front and cross over, the loop over the strand end. Then lead around the back and cross over again, always the strand end first, with the loop end over the top.

Nip and tuck your way up the dowel in that fashion, keeping the cross-over points opposed at 180 degrees, front and back. Spread each turn out a little from the last, bunching them up only at the finish. That builds a little slack into the thing and therefore facilitates removal from the winding dowel. There'll be around 16 turns, all up.

When only the plain ends are left, push the turns together down the dowel and then slip the whole lot up and off. You should be holding a nice little donut stack by now.


Wind a few turns of fixing wire around where the ends cross the last time. That should secure things...




Dowse the toroid portion for polarity. Positive should be what was facing down on the dowel. Mark the positive side of the coil. Next, cut the loop and separate all four strands.


Holding the toroid vertically, dowse each strand, starting with the the two nearest the toroid. Two will be negative and two positive. With the coil toroid now facing positive up, bend the two negatives down. Cut them off a couple of millimetres from the bend down.

Congratulations! That little sorting and pruning job has just upped your scalar output nearly 1000%

Take one RL of the same wire you used to make the stock, fold in half, and starting opposite the antennae, wind it onto the toroid of the coil, first to one side, then the other. It should feel like darning a pair of socks, as you get going and pull some tension on. That coiling will get you a 30% increase, so it's well worth it.

Finally, bend the two antennae to the positive side of the coil. Do it in a nice gentle hyperbola (instead of a harsh vee) and it'll get you over 30% extra oomph. Everything matters here ;-)


And voila! A little scary for left-brainers... no doubt a challenge for the dyslectic among us... but overall, surely a bang-for-the-buck powerup winner!

Now go and do the other five ;-)


[^snip^]..it is a caduceus type coil. Trouble is, I'm still stuck on the habit of looking at that as a two dimensional thing...[^snip^]

I wish I had some better pics. There's only this one:


...which I didn't think up to scratch. It's only an indicative/schematic kind of thing. Then there's also this:


...which might give a better clue as to what crosses over what. The darker portion of red/blue is meant to represent the behind the dowel part of the wrap.


[^snip^] I was asked if I'd considered not trimming the two negative strands. Hell yes. Been there, done that, tried most things, I bet. At first, I too was thinking that if two of the antennae broadcast positive, then the other two must be sucking negative, but I found these strands to be always active as antennae, broadcasting negative and positive and therefore self-cancelling, I suppose. Hoping they'll be sucking leads or whatever and wanting to solder them to ground just doesn't make it so, unfortunately.

The pickup is in the toroid of the coil itself. Imagine an infinite plane of ingress on the negative side and a fairly bundled egress beam on the positive side. Dowse the negative side from a foot away and get nothing. Dowse the positive side from four feet away and get action.

It's a bit like that stargate portal ;-)

What we have here is already a very refined species. Remember, if you build via the halving method (like a lakhovsky) and fail to optimise, you get only one percent of the power which these things throw out!


[^snip^]...my sense is that the awesome power unleashed by these things comes at least in part from identifying, sorting and resolving all the inner tensions *blush* and getting the whole thing coherent in action. IOW, it's not terribly useful to wallpaper all this over, unless it's mediocrity you want ;-)

Having said that, I went and did a couple of coils, where for the first time I marked the ends of the wire prior to any manufacturing steps. I marked the end pulled off the reel, which is invariably male/positive, and its counterpart after doubling over for twisting, like so:

Well, after then completing both as per the tute, it was the unmarked two ends (after eventually cutting the loop) which turned out to be the positive antennae... unexpectedly, it would be fair to say. It might be possible to substantiate that in bulk if a few other people test their builds accordingly and report back.


Well, after then completing both as per the tute, it was the unmarked two ends (after eventually cutting the loop) which turned out to be the positive antennae... unexpectedly, it would be fair to say. It might be possible to substantiate that in bulk if a few other people test their builds accordingly and report back.


 If you then combine that info with what I stated about the bottom-most part of what you wind onto the dowel becoming the positive side of the coil toroid, then we just about have things at a dowsing-free zone stage!

But we need a lot more data on the fate of the wire ends before we can talk about a build principle here.... and then there's always the possibility of an inadvertent slight departure from the build m.o. sending all that topsy-turvy anyway.

Dowsing the end product is bullet-proof. Maybe those who don't quite trust themselves with it can make up a whole bunch of coils and then have them vetted for pruning by a confident dowser in one fell swoop... while using the above marking suggestion as a temporary measure, and working on their own dowsing skills in the background.

Remember to dowse the antenna strands while the toroid is held vertically, like so:


If you have it lying down, then there is too much interference for the subtle energy you wish to detect. Don't do it like this:

Having it lying down like that is the way to dowse the toroid itself, however, right at the outset, before cutting the loop.


[^snip^]...it's the latter with the wire polarity [each wire has a positive & a negative end]. Under normal circumstances it can never be the former... [one wire having both ends positive or both ends negative]

Btw, I hope that everyone makes sure the positive/male end of their cb pipes (both the stubs and the extensions) faces up. That sort of thing really helps, when there's no internal tussle between competing energy polarities!


[^snip^]...I've not done a cb with scarabs embedded in the base, so I cannot comment on that. As far as upgrading the pipes is concerned, right at the ends is definitely best. I even ended up breaking the glue between pipes and spacer to move the spacer right to the top. Not as pretty, but works best.

I've tried most placements with most of the builds I do. Sometimes, however, you want to put it into the body of the build to rev up the internals.

For instance, standard trinities used to give around 300,000 bovis. Built with a scarab, they give 3-3.5 million bovis. That's with it affixed at the middle. If a second scarab is slipped just over the top (male) end, then it goes to over 11 million bovis. I have not tried one with just the 'hat' unfortunately.

I must say, I found these high bovis values very hard to accept, actually, until I realised that most of that was in the high energy scarlet form of life ether. I wanted to quantify that and also the relative positioning on something like a cb pipe. So I did a little experimenting as follows:


I took a piece of inch copper pipe, 10cm/4" long that had a basic output of 5,360 BU 10G/90B/0S. The BU stands for bovis units and the following term is the percentile distribution of gold/blue/scarlet energy.

Next, I took a scarab which just slid over that pipe and measured it stand-alone. It returned 1,660,000 BU 0G/0B/100S. In other words, nothing special for a scarab, just average. I was one of the earlier builds.

I then placed it at the bottom of the pipe and determined the combination. It returned 1,495,000 BU 0G/8B/92S.

I then placed it at the middle of the pipe and determined the combination. It returned 1,510,000 BU 0G/9B/91S.

I then placed it at the top of the pipe and determined the combination. It returned 2,160,000 BU 0G/10B/90S.

In other words, if you look at just the blue component of the energy - it's the blue that does the atmospheric work - it went from 4851 BU (90% of 5,360) to 216,000 (10% of 2,160,000) in that best case above. The other placements were choking the energy back (total less than scarab alone). [^snip^]


[^snip^]...my feeling is that number of turns has incremental impact only... nothing earth-shattering nor terribly detrimental.


[^snip^]...magnet wire may be an abbreviation of speaker magnet wire. In any case, it's copper wire which has an amine polymer coating or similar to act as an insulator. That means it can be wound tightly together to form efficient coils, chokes, armatures and field windings without shorting out. If pvc insulation were used instead, the resultant extra spacing - between one wire loop and the next - would give much less field intensity and significant more bulk of the whole coil.
[^snip^]
Breaking one or both of the positive antennae reduces power significantly. I think you picked up on that. It will still work some. The variation in energy transduced by these coils - from a sloppy or wrong construction to an optimal tuned resonance example - is HUGE.


[^snip^] Practice makes perfect ;-)[^snip^] What really does one of these coils in is if you prune it wrong so that you have a negative together with a positive antenna. That's like two cars locked bumper to bumper. Lots of screeching and tyre smoke, but not much movement. If anyone has made a coil which seems energetically flat, then suspect that occurrence for sure. [^snip^]

"Nothing is now beyond the realms of possibility! We are the ones we have been waiting for..."


Additional Images


What you need to know



The magic, crudely



Something the cat dragged in!



By the throat



Way to go



Towerbuster layout



Including shell-tech

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