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Title: Sarane (drake and hen)
Description: Multi-use Tutorial


Spirit - December 28, 2010 07:05 PM (GMT)
GENERAL SARANE INFO


How do you aquire a Drake or Hen Sarane?
Easy!

Take one of these here!


BROWN HEN HATCHLING
user posted image
CODE
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/Spiritchan/MML_breedable/sarane_brown_f_whelp.gif[/IMG]


BROWN DRAKE HATCHLING
user posted image
CODE
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/Spiritchan/MML_breedable/sarane_brown_m_whelp.gif[/IMG]


Sadly Sarane Drake and Hens (not even offspring) do not get hatching loyalty bonuses, so your new Brown hatchling(s) are at a loyalty of 0 to you.

Wait.. how do you get drakes and hens of the other breeds?
Well.. we don't know! Maybe you should go exploring to find out... or if you happen across a traveling merchant, they might be selling an egg or two...

How do you get custom Drakes or Hens? You breed them. What? That's not custom enough for you? Well, too bad - you get special colors and abilities of Drakes and Hens by breeding them. Mix and match to see what you get! :D

How long do you have to wait for your Drake or Hen to reach sexual maturity?
No time at all!

The Sarane is the first species 100% under the "grow your own" policy!
When you wish to grow your Sarane, simply replace it's code approrpiately!

Want an example?



To GROW your BROWN Drake or Hen Hatchling, simply replace it's code with the following:

BROWN DRAKE ADULT
user posted image
CODE
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/Spiritchan/MML_breedable/sarane_brown_m_drake.gif[/IMG]


BROWN HEN ADULT
user posted image
CODE
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/Spiritchan/MML_breedable/sarane_brown_f_hen.gif[/IMG]



When you aquire Sarane of other breeds, or even offspring Sarane, you will immediatly recieve BOTH codes for hatchling AND adult at the same time. It's up to YOU to save your code somewhere safe so you can grow them when you're ready! Please have some integrity though; dont' go "un-growing" your drakes just for a statistical advantage!

Spirit - December 28, 2010 07:40 PM (GMT)
BREAKING DRAKES


Once your drake reaches adulthood, you can begin the process of breaking it.
Without breaking your drake, you will never be able to train it, control it, etc... it may fly away, or even kill you... So breaking a drake once it reaches adulthood, is required for it's keeping.

The process of breaking a drake is both simple, and complicated at the same time. The concept is easy. Get on the drake, and hold on. If you get thrown off, don't die - and try to get back on. Eventually, your drake will wear out, and you'll 'win'. ..... however, Drakes are MUCH more powerful than people, so people are at a major disadvantage. Here's the in-depth break-down of how it works;



First, you go to the fighting pit, and begin a thread for breaking your drake. Your thread must contain your drake's image, name and stats, a link to your character sheet and images of all items you're using both for the drake and for you (such as weaponry). Your Drake will have acted like a raving maniac towards you from the moment he grows, good luck on bringing him to the Pit.

We'd suggest (very highly) that you buy some supplies... here's a list of supplies we suggest:

QUOTE
Tether:  Prevents your drake from flying away during the process.. if your drake already knows how to fly, or IF you failed once before, as your drake certainly knows how to fly by then.

Muzzle-Wrap:  Specifically for Drakes, to prevent them from being able to use those nasty biting teeth against you.

Ankle-Wraps:  An interesting weighted thing, that even though it doesn't prevent the claws from being used, puts a lot of weight on each leg - cutting your Drake's dexterity in half, while allowing it to still move.

Tail-Guard:  Only for Spade, Thorns, and Club tail types.  We suggest you wrap yoru drake's tail in the tail guard to save your life.

Saddle:  Helps YOU hold on.

Horn Guard: Only for Tier 2 and Tier 3 Drakes. Covers a Drake's horns completely, so that he cannot cut or slice you. He can still strike you, but you only have to worry about the weight he puts behind it.

** IF your drake has 15+ loyalty BEFORE it reaches adulthood, it doesn't want to hurt you (but it will)... for the breaking process, you can cut your drake's strength in half.



Now that you've likely bought and attatched all of your Drake-Specific supplies, it's time to hop on, and start breaking him. As soon as you hop on, he WILL fight you, he WILL try to knock you off, he WILL try to run/fly away... Imagine trying to ride a wild stallion - not going to work. During the breaking process, a staff member will take control of your Drake in the fighting pit.



Here's how the process works (turn-by-turn):

For every "round" that you manage to stay on your drake, your drake looses 1 point in stamina... not HEALTH, but stamina... it gets more tired.

Once your drake reaches 0 stamina, he's exhausted, and you win.

If the drake manages to throw you off, you'd better try to not die, and attempt to get back on... we'd suggest COMBAT TRAINING for this.

If you DIE in the process of breaking your drake, don't worry. You get a free revival (paid for by the D&H Society), and you simply have to wait one week to recover fully before trying again... However, once you fail, all of your equipment has been broken by the drake, and he now knows (if he did not know before) how to fly.




For those of you who are "stat-savy", we'll give you a list of common moves that your drake may use against you while you are on it's back:

QUOTE
Spin:  Spins in a rapid circle, attempting to throw you off.  For every point in strength AND dexterity you have, you may flip a coin.  Every "heads" counts as a win.  You need more "wins" than your drake has in strength.  Using a saddle doubles your "wins".  If you fail, you are thrown off.

Throw:  Leaps and bucks, attempting to throw you off.  For every point in dexterity you have, you may flip a coin.  Every "heads" counts as a win.  You need more "wins" than your drake has in dexterity.  Using a saddle doubles your "wins".  If you fail, you are thrown off.

Leg-Crush:  Attempts to crush your leg against the arena wall.  The drake's remaining stamina vs. your resistance (armor included).  If you fail, you loose 1 stamina immediately.  If you win, your drake looses one stamina immediately.

Head-Flip:  The Drake rears it's head back quickly, attempting to reverse-head-butt you;  stunning you.  If he succeeds in striking you, you are stunned, and your dexterity is cut in half on your next turn.  Cannot be used twice in a row.

Tail-Swipe:  The Drake whips it's tail around, attemping to sweep you off it's back.  It is however, and akward angle for the drake to use his tail at, so for this attack, his strength is cut in half.  If he manages to strike you, it's his strength vs. your strength and stamina combined...  If his is greater, you are knocked off.  If yours is greater, you managed to stay on, but you loose one point in stamina.  Cannot be used twice in a row.

Roll:  Rolls entirely across the ground, attempting to crush you in the process.  Your drake's (remaining) stamina vs. your resistance (armor included) and dexterity combined.  If you fail, you are stunned, and loose half your dexterity next turn, in addition to being knocked off.  Can only be used once per battle.




IF YOU ARE THROWN TO THE GROUND, your drake can use any of his traditional moves (claw, horn strike, etc) against you. Be careful! We suggest knowing a bit of combat training to try to wrestle or nimbly leap back onto your drake!!

Note: When your Drake has not been broken, it does not get any loyalty to you nor does it gain any during your attempt to break it. It does however gain levels as usual and after it has been broken it will gain loyalty to you again.

You do not have to break your drake to fight it in the pit/tournament - but you cannot control or train your drake unless it is broken... therefore, you don't have to break your drake to produce better offspring... but it helps.

Spirit - December 28, 2010 07:43 PM (GMT)
BATTLING DRAKES


Every season (winter, summer, etc), there will be a Drake Tournament!
This is the perfect chance for your drake to increase it's dominance, or be smashed down to it's rightful place at the bottom of the barrel. The most dominant drakes not only secure breeding rights, but they also produce better offspring!

Every 5 battles your drake wins (without any losses) grants him one point in "dominance". If he gets 5 points in "dominance" total, he is Dominant!... That's a LOT of battling to be done to get to the top. Alteratively, if your drake is the CHAMPION of that season's arena; reguardless of how many entries, that drake is automatically Dominant!
If your drake ever reaches more than a 20% "lost" ratio, their staus of Dominant is taken away!

"Dominance" is a way of measuring 'experience points' toward a new "tier"..
Your basic Drake is a "Tier 1" drake, nothing special.
If your "Tier 1" drake breeds while Dominant, his offspring will be automatically "Tier 2"!!
Teir 2 Drakes must have at least one point in "dominance" (5 battles won without losses) in order for their offspring to remain Tier 2. If your Tier 2 Drake does NOT have at least 5 dominance points, his offspring are mere Tier 1 hatchlings. IF however, yoru Teir 2 drake is Dominant, his offspring will be Tier 3!!

Hens can also be seperated in "tiers", but do not get that way via battle... they get that way via breeding. You cannot inbreed drakes and hens to get higher tier... but breeding a tier 2 (or even 3) hen is a great way to keep your offspring strong witout ever battling your drakes.


Let's look at this chart:
QUOTE
Tier 1 + Dominant Status = Tier 2 offspring
Tier 2 = Tier 1 offspring
Tier 2 + 5 battles (with no losses) = Tier 2 offspring
Tier 2 + Dominant Status = Tier 3 offspring
Tier 2 + Tier 2 (or 3) Hen = Tier 2 offspring
Tier 3 + Tier 3 Hen = Tier 3 offspring
Tier 3 = Tier 2 offspring
Tier 3 + 5 battles (with no losses) = Tier 3 offspring
Tier 3 + Dominant Status = Tier 3 offspring



A Drake's record in domiance is permenantly recorded here.

You must not let your Dominant Drake become too stagnant, or he looses his Dominant status! Your dominant drake can go no longer than 2 seasons without battling before he looses his Dominant status. Granted, he could loose that battle and keep his status, as long as it didn't push his lost rate to beyond 20%.


You can always battle your Drakes at any time - but at the end of eash SEASON, those drakes that earned the Dominant status recieve a free breeding!

Spirit - December 28, 2010 07:43 PM (GMT)
BREEDING SARANE

Breeding your Sarane is done in one of two ways.

Way #1: Pay for it as with any other species.

Way #2: At the end of every season, the Dominant Drakes (and Hens) can earn a free breeding!! Choose their partners wisely!






Stats? Easy enough.

When you breed your Sarane, it will follow the BREED stats (blue, brown, etc) of ONE of it's parents - either the mother or father... so you could end up with a RED sarane that has "Tundra Dweller" (the white sarane's core ability).

In addition to this, it's TAIL TYPE also alters the stats of the Sarane; and is seperate from the core BREED stat that it inherited from it's parents... So.. you COULD have a RED colored sarane with "Tundra Dweller" (the white's ability), and a Fin Tail that allows it to Swim (the blue's classic tail)... it might even have a pelt-pattern of the Gold's classic doe-like spots!

The Tier of dominance also effects the stats of the offspring. You can easily see this difference in their wing-size (for hens), or horn-size (for drakes) once they reach sexual maturity.

NOTE!
Red's and Gold's do not breed. This is because, in the wild, they eat each other's babies. :3


SO! Recap!
To determine your offspring's stats; Choose the ONE CORE BREED that your parent's are based on. Look at it's tail. And understand it's Tier.

You can find all this information in their stat page.




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